Ask The Makeup Diva

Getting the perfect look from your foundation is often a mix of the right product plus the right application. Here are a few things to consider:

Are you using the right foundation formula for your skin? Choosing liquid, powder, or cream foundation often has more to
do with your skin type than your preference. Oily skins don’t
need the richness of a cream makeup, and dry skin usually looks
even drier or flaky with powders. Think about the look you want
and what your skin needs as you try different formulas.

Are you using the right skin care? If your foundation looks
too dewy or won’t spread evenly on your skin, perhaps your
moisturizer is too rich or it needs more time to absorb into
your skin before you apply your makeup. On the other hand, if
your skin is still dry or dehydrated even after using your skin
care products, that is not the best “canvas” for your
foundation. Dehydrated skin can grab onto the foundation and
make it streak and set too quickly. Before you apply your
makeup, your skin should feel comfortable, and without any
excess moisture. You might also be having problems because of
the Retin-A, which can make the skin sensitive or dry.

Are you using the best technique to apply the foundation?
Every woman I know has her own method for applying foundation,
so there are really no rules or absolutes. I suggest trying a
few different techniques to see which one gives you the finish
you want. You can use a thick wedge sponge, a thinner round or
oval sponge, a foundation brush (for liquids and creams), a
velour puff (for powder foundation), a powder brush, your
fingers, or a combination of tools. I would encourage you to
experiment until you find a method that you feel comfortable
with.

Which do you want first – the good news or the bad news?

The bad news is that you can’t get rid of your pores, and you can’t permanently change their size. This is a myth, along with the notion that pores somehow open and close – they don’t. Your pore size is hereditary, meaning that if your parents have large pores, it’s very possible that you will, too. Pores also appear open and enlarged when they are full of oil or debris. When the pore is clean and free of excess oil and dirt, it appears closed. Cleansers, toners, and masks can only temporarily tighten the skin, making the pores appear smaller but not really changing them at all. Sorry

The good news is that there are products you can use and techniques you can try to make your pores appear smaller and less visible. The effects are temporary, but can make your skin look smoother at least for a short time.

Just about any clay facial mask will clean your skin and make it feel tighter and the pores appear smaller, so consider treating your skin to one once or twice a week. A few that I like are Beauty Without Cruelty Purifying Facial Mask, Estee Lauder So Clean Deep Pore Mask, Kiss My Face Organics Deep Pore Cleansing Masque, Better Botanicals Refining Facial Mask, and Garden Botanika Skin Renewing Clarifying Facial Mask.

Keep your skin clean. This doesn’t mean excessive washing or scrubbing (cleanse twice a day, gently scrub only once or twice a week), but at least make sure to remove all your makeup and wash your face every night before you go to bed, and try to avoid cosmetics and skin care products that make your skin breakout (the products that do can be different for everybody).

Use makeup as sparingly as possible. Heavy foundations can settle in your pores and make already large pores appear larger by caking on the skin. Be meticulous in your application: apply foundation with a
clean makeup sponge and blend carefully for a smooth, even finish. When you apply powder, use a large fluffy brush and be sure to dust off any excess from your skin.

Keep your makeup tools like sponges and brushes very clean. Any bacteria, oil, or dirt they may carry can settle in your pores every time you apply makeup. I recommend washing your brushes every two weeks in a mild hair shampoo or brush cleaner, and sponges as soon as all sides are dirty (also in a mild liquid soap or shampoo).

Although there are variations to applying things like lipstick and eye shadow, putting on basic makeup like foundation and concealer are as easy as 1-2-3!

Always start with a clean, moisturized face. If you wear foundation, you’ll apply this first, either all over your face or just in the spots you need it – whichever method you prefer. I like to apply foundation all over so my skin looks as even as it can. Note: if you use a powder-based, two-in-one style foundation like MAC Studio Fix, Stila Illuminating Powder, Aveda Dual Base minus Oil, or Cover Girl Simply Powder, you can skip right to your color cosmetics after applying your foundation. You don’t need extra concealer or powder.

Your second step, if you have any areas that weren’t covered by your foundation and need extra attention, like dark undereye circles, blemishes, red spots, or broken capillaries, is where concealer comes in. Apply it with your fingers, a clean sponge, or a makeup brush in gentle, dabbing strokes, then tap carefully with your fingertip around the edges to blend. You can also apply concealer to your eye lids for a really smooth look. It will even out any blotchy skintone and will help your eye shadow stay on longer.

The third step after foundation and concealer is powder. Even dry skin can benefit from the right powder because it sets your makeup for longer wear throughout the day. I like loose powder better than pressed because the finish is lighter. Apply it lightly with a large powder brush, making sure to dust a little under your eyes to set your concealer (helps prevent creasing).

With your basic makeup finished, the rest is really up to your own preference. Here are a few guidelines:

If you use eye makeup, I recommend you apply your shadows first, then liner, then mascara. The mascara will seal in any eye shadow that falls on your lashes and actually make them look thicker.

Apply your blush after foundation and eye makeup so you can adjust the intensity of the color to suit the rest of your face.

Lip liner can come either before or after lipstick depending on your needs. If you like having an outline to fill in, apply liner first and then lipstick – just make sure to blend the edges with a lipbrush or cotton swab so you don’t have an obvious line. If you feel confident with applying lipstick, I recommend putting your lipstick on first, then liner. I find the colors last longer this way
and it tends to look more polished.

Caring for your makeup brush investment is much easier than most people realize. I typically wash all my brushes every two weeks. All you need is a good, slightly moisturizing shampoo or liquid soap, and a towel.

Start by wetting the brush bristles thoroughly, then apply a small dab of shampoo or liquid soap directly to the bristles, and work it in for a few seconds like you would shampooing your hair. I like to swish it around with a little water in my palm to work off any stubborn eye shadow or concealer. When the shampoo and water are free of debris, rinse the bristles thoroughly under lukewarm running water, very gently squeeze the excess water out, reshape the bristles to their normal shape, and lay the brush on the towel in a flat position. The brush must be dried flat for two reasons:

1. If the brush is upright, any excess water will run down into the brush and break down the glue that is holding the bristles in place
2. The bristles will bend and flop over into a completely different shape, making normal makeup application very difficult

I usually clean my brushes at night so they are completely dry and ready to go in the morning. Be careful not to overwash your brushes, as this can make the bristles brittle and scratchy. If you find you are using multiple colors that require the brush to be clean, consider buying more than one of the brush you use most often.

There are several things that could be going on. First, you could be using the wrong products for your skin type. If your skin is dry but you think it’s oily because you have breakouts, you could be drying out your skin to the point of making it
irritated and reactive. Even if you have oily skin, if you are
using products that are overly drying or contain ingredients
that you are sensitive to, the problem could be getting worse.

Along the same line, if you are washing too frequently or
scrubbing too hard, your skin could get irritated and react with
a breakout.

Another possibility is that the products you are using, both
skin care and makeup, contain ingredients that aggravate acne.
You would be surprised at how many products carrying a
“hypo-allergenic,” “safe for sensitive skin,” “dermatologist
tested,” or even “non-comedogenic” label have ingredients that
can make some people break out. I check everything I use against
a list of comedogenic ingredients at either of these sites:

http://www.clearcomplexions.com/rateyour.htm
http://www.zerozits.com/Articles/acne_detective/printable.htm

If something rates a “3″ or higher, I don’t use it. Not everyone
will experience a problem using these ingredients, but if your
skin is anything like mine, you might just clear up most of
those breakouts that seem to come from nowhere. A simple choice
in moisturizer or concealer could make a big difference for your
acne problem.

To help clear things up, you might also consider using a gentle
salicylic acid cleanser on the affected areas once a day (my
favorite is Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash Cream Cleanser) or a gentle benzoyl peroxide medicine (preferably 2.5% or 5%
concentration at the most). If you’d like to try both
treatments, use one in the morning and one at night; both at the
same time can be too drying. Try these suggestions for at least
a month and hopefully you will see some results.

There is a multitude of ways to transform bathtime into a sensual spa experience. I suggest you visit the site selfcare.com. If you search under “bath and body” and “looking
your best,” type in “whirlpool” under “search.” Homedics offers
a jet sauna which temporarily attaches to your tub and performs
like a whirlpool at the unbeatable price of $25. If you prefer,
Sunbeam has a shower massage for approximately the same cost.

Amera products (amera.com) has some tempting, effective
products: they offer Satin Finish grapefruit-scented cleansing
lotion which sloughs off dead skin cells and renews your body
for $10; Sea Bath oils in “Purity” ($6) soften and relax;
mineral salts and Sea Bath salts in Serenity, which permeate
your skin with magnesium and other elements found in the ocean
and natural spas and springs, leave you relaxed and your skin
like velvet.

To continue the luxurious spa atmosphere, dim the lights, burn
candles (safely!) in your bathroom in a lavender scent (an aroma
proven to relax) and place a vinyl, inflatable pillow behind
your head. And don’t forget to take the phone off the hook and
play your favorite mellow music, whether it be R&B, alternative,
or classical. You’ll emerge a new woman!

Yours is not an easy question to answer, but don’t despair, you still have options. Some women have harder, more brittle nails simply due to genetics. Assuming you have no skin diseases, you may want to look “inside” for the answer to this
dilemma. Your diet may be lacking in Essential Fatty Acids, also
known as the “cosmetic vitamins.” EFA’s are essential in
controlling body oils that keep skin soft, smooth, and youthful.
Lecithin, found in egg yolks and some other vegetables, enables
the body to absorb essential fatty acids and is itself a rich
source of EFA’s. Vitamins A and E, along with zinc (a naturally
occuring mineral), work together in many body functions,
including skin development and maintenance.

Stress and environmental pollutants can contribute to dryness
also. Your body requires B vitamins to function properly and
will take these from nutrient stores in the hair, skin, and
nails if it does not receive its daily requirements through food
or supplement sources. The result is dry and brittle hair that
breaks easily, as well as severely dry skin around your nails.
Since B vitamins leave the body within eight hours, they need to
be continually replenished; a combination of biotin, inositol,
folic acid, and other substances are needed for vitamins to do
their job effectively. Analyze your own diet, making sure you’re
getting proper nutrients, and then check with your physician and
health food store expert about which supplement(s) to purchase,
if necessary.

Your skin is most pliable after a bath or shower, so consider
soaking your nails in hot oil after you bathe at least three
times a week (Avon’s “Skin-So-Soft” bath oil is an affordable, effective product). Try a hot paraffin (wax) treatment (at
salons, or about $60 from Homedics); it not only is soothing,
but when you remove the cooled wax from your hands, you also
remove dead skin, leaving behind satiny skin.

The most effective cuticle and nail cremes I’ve found are Amera mousse ($14) and Sally Hansen’s cuticle cremes. Beauty Without Cruelty Green Tea Nourishing Eye Gel (approximately $14.50) is a “powerhouse” of a product; not only can it be applied to the eye area, but the directions suggest using it on severely dry skin on hands, elbows, and feet. I was skeptical of this light gel, but when water beaded on my hydrated skin, I became a believer
and continual user.

I was surprised to learn last week that many dermatologists
recommend rubbing vegetable oil (such as Crisco) into your skin
rather than Vaseline, as it is more easily absorbed. “Seal” the
vegetable oil with Vaseline, and put the gloves back on. Much
work and not pleasant, I’ll admit, but this should help you. One
last tip: before you apply nail enamel, cover your nails with a
ridge-filling base coat.

Absolutely yes! Most women possess products from many different lines; you may not care for one company’s blush but love their eyeshadows. My eclectic collection of most-used products cosmetics ranges from Wet ‘n Wild, Cover Girl,
Maybelline, and Rimmel to Profaces, Lorac, Christian Dior, Hard
Candy, Philosophy, Scarlett, Matrix, Chanel, and others; each
line has its own strong points.

The same is basically true of skin care. If you find a line with
products which all perform well for you, then use it
consistently. Most companies tout using only the products in
their lines, but I disagree (always keep in mind that some
cosmetic salespeople receive commissions on sales). Currently,
I’m using Joey New York because I love it. Although Joey is
great for cleansing and blemish treatment and I employ many of
their items, I prefer Beauty Without Cruelty Green Tea Nourishing Eye Gel (about $15; my eyes tend to puff when I awake, but not with this
one). Artistry (available through Quixtar.com) has an outstanding
alpha hydroxy moisturizing serum which is absorbed into the skin
so completely that there is no greasy feel – only a fine,
velvety, matte finish. Elizabeth Arden’s Eight-Hour Cr

Your skin, like you, needs to “breathe.” Sleep is when our minds and bodies are rejuvenated. Hair and nails grow more quickly during these hours than at any other time of the day. Your skin needs to be free of products which will simply block
your pores and inevitably cause breakouts. Consider this: If a
patch to help stop smoking can be absorbed through your skin,
then so can your makeup!

Moreover, it is before bed when you should give special
attention to thoroughly cleansing your skin from the day’s grime
and oil build-up and use products which will leave you with a
soft, firm, wrinkle-free, luminous complexion in the morning.
After cleansing and toning, choose a skin care regimen (or
assorted products) which works for you and stay with it. Read
the ingredients; items with alpha-hydroxy components (vegetable
and fruit acids) will help your own skin to renew itself,
ridding itself of dead cells. Thus, you won’t awake with clogged
pores and troubled skin, but a wide-awake, ready-to-paint
“canvas” for the next day.

You raise an excellent question, and I would have to reply both “yes” and “no” to it. I have been gifted with good skin, but I require foundation to even out my skin tone and add a tinge of color to my very pale complexion. For quite a long
time, I used Christian Dior‘s liquid matte foundation
(approximately $38). It offered flawless medium coverage,
blended easily with my own skin tone, and added just the
slightest hint of pink for a soft glow. Now that Dior has
discontinued this product, I’ve tried many others. My next
choice was their cr