Ask The Makeup Diva

Usually, the best route to go for faces is to pick a self
tanner designed expressly for your complexion. I’ve used, and
liked, Coppertone’s formula, but I feel it would be more
appropriate for the body because of a breakout risk. Neutrogena
makes a very nice facial self-tanner, as does Clarins.

However, you have so many options for your face. You can use a
powder bronzer for temporary, natural-looking color. Consider
trying Hoola by Benefit (at Sephora.com), Wet and Wild’s Powder Bronzer, or
Morning Sun by Clarins. I also love gel formulas, and have been
a big fan of Bonne Bell’s gel bronzer for years. Lastly, BeneFit
makes a product called Glamazon, which totally rocks. It is a
liquid bronzer that blends beautifully, and looks very natural.
Choices, choices! Just do a bit of experimenting, and you’ll
find the formula that works best for your skin type.

For the sake of your skin’s health, I absolutely cannot advocate using a tanning bed, or being out in the sun without an SPF of at least 15. The concentration of UV rays a tanning bed emits is quite high, and will contribute greatly to premature
wrinkling, dryness, and even skin cancer, which is one of the
fastest growing cancers in the USA. Really, it just isn’t worth
risking your health over. Not to mention that a tanning bed
doesn’t provide a very attractive color on most people.

Instead of trying to fight your skin’s natural color, why not
revel in it? Pale skin is sexy and glamorous, and can look
absolutely stunning in vibrant colors such as red and hot pink.
If you really want to add a bit of color, use a self tanner like
Coppertone, Bain de Soleil, Clarins, or Neutrogena. Be sure to
pick the lightest shade available.

First you need to determine your SPF needs. There are options ranging from an SPF of 4 to 30. Consider how much time you spend in the sun, and whether or not you would like some color or none. Peter Thomas Roth has a fragrance free, paba free and non
comedogenic moisturizer and it is oil free. Unfortunately, it
is only 4oz. and does not go a long way. But how much is enough?
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, one ounce of
sunscreen, enough to fill a shot glass, is necessary to cover
the whole body. However, you may need more moisture. So, it may
be a personal preference. Ahava also produces an oil free
sunscreen for the body with an SPF of 4. They are a bit more
generous with 8oz. of product. Both of these products are found
at Sephora.com. If you’re looking for a less expensive approach, Neutrogena makes Healthy Defense SPF 45, which is oil free and also waterproof. You also get the added benefit of vitamins A, E & C. This can be found at any local drugstore.

Preparation H under my eyes? I don’t think I would trust the
skin on my face to anything like that! There are some very good
products on the market specifically for the “puffy eyes
problem”. Remember, if hereditary is to blame (as it is for some
of us) you will only be able to minimize, but not completely
reverse, the problem. Some good products are Beauty Without Cruelty Green Tea Nourishing Eye Gel, Origins No Puffery, Caudalie Grape Seed Eye Contour Cream (at Sephora.com) and Cellex-C Advanced C
Eye Toning Gel (also at Sephora.com) (be careful with this one if your skin is sensitive). Remember to drink 8-10 glasses of water each day, as eye puffs can be exacerbated by dehydration. Also, be care not
to stretch the delicate skin around your eyes while cleansing,
inserting contacts, applying makeup (use your ring finger
because it’s the weakest finger), and don’t rub your eyes.

Tell her to skip the creams, expensive spa treatments and pills, and instead work to burn it off. Strength training and cardiovascular training along with good eating habits goes a long way in diminishing cellulite. Not only does it reduce fat, but helps her to gain muscle tone. Good muscle tone gives great shape to
the body while diminishing fat. Cellulite is subcutaneous fat
laced with fibrous tissue and weak unused muscles give the fat
on top of them a “mushy” look. She may not see a complete exit
of this fat, but with dedication and hard work she can reduce it
greatly. If she needs help in beginning an exercise program,
have her try a trainer or go to the gym with a partner.
Sometimes having a buddy to work out with can keep you
motivated. There are many forms of other exercise without the
cost. Simply walking with small hand weights is also an option.
For more motivation and many fitness options, as well as a
personal work out tailored to your needs, check out efit.com. If
she is really desperate to get rid of it quickly there is always
the option of liposuction. However, she should consult her
physician and think long and hard before attempting this
measure. The bottom line is, there is hope!

“Blackhead.” Even the word looks ominous. They look even worse on your face. I know – I’ve been there. I’ve endured painful extractions, but they always came back. I used to
console myself by believing they were meant to be there, like
freckles.

When those pore strips came out, I ran out and bought half a
dozen boxes. They didn’t work for me either.

One remedy I’ve found that truly gets rid of blackheads is
Differin Gel. Differin is a topical medication available by
prescription from your dermatologist. Used once daily, it
helps lessen oil production, keeps breakouts at bay and gets rid
of those horrid little black spots. Consult your doctor to see
if you’re a candidate for Differin, or another prescription
treatment option.

If a prescription isn’t an option for you, the next best thing is daily use of beta hydroxy acid, better known as salicylic acid. It can penetrate the pores better than an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), which only works on the surface cells of your skin, to loosen the pore-clogging oil and dead skin cells that create blackheads. One of my favorite effective and inexpensive salicylic acid products is Paula’s Choice 1% BHA Solution (paulaschoice.com). This light lotion can be used all over your face or just on the trouble spots, and it’s fairly gentle so you can use it every day (just once a day, though). For more stubborn blackheads they also offer a 2% solution in liquid form that I find works great on regular pimples as well. You can dab it on with a cotton pad or swab and the blemishes clear up within just a day or so.

Since most eye creams are simple moisturizers and just temporarily plump up the skin, it doesn’t make sense to spend a small fortune on them. Here are a few that I like for basic dry skin relief:

L’Oreal Revitalift Eye
Nivea Q10 Wrinkle Control Eye
Neutrogena Healthy Skin Eye Cream
Avon Lighten Up Plus

If it’s puffiness you are trying to get rid of, an eye gel with
ingredients like cucumber, witch hazel, and chamomile will work
better than a cream. Beauty Without Cruelty makes a great green tea eye gel, or you could try Pond’s Soothing Cucumber Eye Treatments – cooling eye pads soaked in cucumber, aloe, chamomile and green tea extracts that look just like freshly sliced cucumber.

Of the undereye circle remedies I’ve tried, the Avon Lighten Up
one mentioned above is the only one I’ve found to make any
difference, and it’s a small difference at that. Unfortunately
the best solution for dark circles won’t be found in an eye
cream; dark circles are best covered with a yellow-based
concealer. The yellow color counteracts the blue/purple in dark
circles and covers better than a regular skintone concealer.

Let me start by saying that there are several different ideas about the role of a toner/freshener/astringent in a skin care routine, depending on who you talk to. Women working at a boutique, salon, spa, or cosmetic counter at a department store will probably tell you that a toner is an essential step, that it “balances” the skin, removes any makeup or dirt that your
cleanser missed, and “prepares” the skin for moisturizer or
treatment.

First, let’s clear up the differences are between toners,
fresheners and astringents. These terms are often used
interchangeably, with “toner” being the most common. Most
“toners” are made up of water, skin soothers like aloe or
chamomile, plant oils, ingredients to cleanse or draw moisture
to the skin, and preservatives. Typically, “fresheners” are
alcohol-free while “astringents” are not. Astringents are
usually for oily skin and are often designed to fight acne or
control oil.

Another option for toners is the addition of treatment
ingredients like alpha hydroxy (lactic, glycolic) or beta
hydroxy (salicylic) acids, or vitamins. Of all the extras,
salicylic acid can be most helpful for blemish prone skin since
it penetrates the pores and helps clear out the dead skin cells
and bacteria that can cause pimples.

So, do you really need a toner? Based on my experience over the
years with hundreds of products in dozens of different lines, I
have to say “No”. I have never noticed my skin acting more
“balanced” or more “prepared”, and you should not need a toner
to remove makeup or dirt that your cleanser didn’t get – you
just need a better cleanser. Having said that, there are a few
toners that I do like, for specific reasons. Both Peter Thomas Roth Oxygen Mist and Joey New York Calm & Correct Gentle Soothing Toner do a great job at soothing red, irritated skin, while BeneFit Alpha Smooth has just enough lactic acid to lightly exfoliate and help keep the pores clear. (All three are available from Sephora.com.)

If you decide to add a toner to your daily skin care routine,
make it one that really suits your skin and its needs. Always
choose something gentle that doesn’t dry, strip or otherwise
irritate your skin, and don’t spend a fortune on something that
is basically souped-up water. Here are a few that I like:

Renee Rouleau Bioflavonoid Toner

Burt’s Bees Carrot Seed Oil Complexion Mist

Alba Botanica Toner

Hopefully I can provide a simple answer for a fairly simple question!

Pressed powder is a cake of face powder pressed into a mirrored
compact with a puff or sponge. It usually has a matte finish on
the skin, and is portable and convenient for touch-ups during
the day if you have oily skin that needs blotting.

Loose powder has a consistency more like baby powder – soft,
fine, and, well, loose. Most brands are packaged in a tin,
plastic box, or shaker container with a screen over the powder
so you can shake out a little at a time through the small holes
in the screen. Unless you have a container that stays tightly
closed, loose powder is not very portable. There is a benefit of
loose over pressed, though – loose powder is softer and more
natural looking on the skin. You can apply it with a powder
brush or a puff depending on the finish you want.

Both pressed and loose powders typically come in a variety of
skin tone shades from light beige to deep cocoa. There are also
translucent or colorless powders that are designed to work on
any skin color. If you always use your powder over foundation or
concealer, a translucent powder will set the makeup without
adding any extra color.

Face powder in skintone colors are great if you want to wear
only powder with no other foundation, or if your foundation
color needs some adjusting. For example, if your foundation is
too pink, you can layer a yellow-based powder over it to make
the overall color more neutral. Some brands also make green and
violet powders that are supposed to counteract too much red in
the skin (you’d use green powder) or too sallow (you’d use
violet). Personally I think these are gimmicky and never look as
good on the skin as they sound in theory. I recommend sticking
to translucent or natural skintone shades.

Let me just start by saying that for the most part, cosmetic companies often make pretty lofty claims about what their products can do. So many of them promise the sun, moon and stars, but those claims often are terribly inflated (like “re-training” the skin to act differently, making pores physically smaller, and magically erasing wrinkles, just to name a few). We all want to look our best, so we get sucked in and start to believe that a miracle cream or potion might really exist – it doesn’t

Having said that, there are plenty of good quality skin care and makeup choices at the drugstore that are just as effective (just ignore the hype) as department store brands for a lot less money. Here are a few of my favorites:

Makeup
Foundation can be a little tricky if there are no testers to try the colors on your skin, but there are still some great products to be found at the drugstore. If there are no testers, try to shop somewhere that will let you exchange your purchase for another color if necessary. You can also bring a favorite foundation you currently use from another brand to the drugstore and compare colors. I’ve done this several times and find it can really help narrow the choices down. Of all the drugstore foundations available, I’ve found Maybelline True Illusion liquid, Almay Skin Stays Clean liquid, Neutrogena Healthy Skin liquid, and Almay Wake-Up Call! liquid all have nice texture, good wearability, a nice range of colors, and work well for a variety of skin types.

Mascara is one of my favorite products to get at the drugstore. It’s so reasonably priced, I can afford to replace it every three months (good for preventing eye problems caused by bacteria) and not feel like I’m throwing my money away.

When most women think drugstore mascara, they think Maybelline Great Lash; it has been touted for years as a favorite in the business, named countless times as magazine beauty editors’ favorite, but I honestly have no idea why. I find it to be thick, gloppy, overly wet, and it smears like nobody’s business. This is one of those “like it or hate it” products, so I can understand if you strongly agree or disagree with me. Here are a few drugstore mascaras that I recommend: Maybelline Lash by Lash and Volum’ Express, L’Oreal Voluminous and Le Grand Curl (compares to Lancome Extencils), Max Factor 2000 Calorie, Rimmel Extra Super Lash, and Jane Flashes.

Lipstick is another easy winner at the drugstore – the prices are so much lower than dept. store brands that you can afford to try new colors and textures. Of the brands I’ve tried, Maybelline Wear ‘n Go, Max Factor Lipfinity, Revlon Absolutely Fabulous Lipcream and Olay Colormoist are among my favorites. Changing your lipstick is one of the easiest ways to update your makeup, and these drugstore finds make it affordable, too.

Skin Care
With the prices of fancy treatment creams at the department store counters skyrocketing, it’s no wonder we want to find something comparable at the drugstore. Many of the products are even practically identical to department store brands; for instance, Lancome and L’Oreal are owned by the same company and have many similar skin care products. If you have a Lancome favorite but hate spending so much money, L’Oreal just might have a similar product for less.

Of all the drugstore products I’ve tried, here are a few of my favorites that I think perform as well or better than those at the expensive cosmetic counters:

• Biore: I particularly like the non-foaming cleanser, daily scrub, and new Blemish Double Agent gel.
• Pond’s: Their makeup remover towelettes are a great find, as is their Cleansing Lotion & Moisturizer In One.
• Neutrogena: Their Extra Gentle Facial Cleanser, Fresh Foaming Cleanser, Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream (compares to Estee Lauder Diminish Retinol Treatment), and Norwegian Formula Hand Cream are among my favorites of this brand.
• Oil of Olay: You can’t go wrong with the original beauty fluid, and I also love the sensitive skin cream.
• Aveeno: This new line of skin care has an amazing cleansing lotion and daytime moisturizer with retinol and SPF 15.

Remember a basic cosmetic rule – you don’t always get what you pay for! With a little comparison shopping, you’ll find some great, inexpensive products at the drugstore that work just as well or better than high priced department store lines.