Ask The Makeup Diva

The beauty industry has made huge strides in prevention and coverage of dark circles. But first, you need to address the cause of your circles. You may have very thin skin and inherited this trait. However, too much sodium, stress, fatigue, allergies, heavy eye creams, fluid retention, and alcohol all contribute to the problem. Old but pertinent advice: Eat well, drink as much water as you can possibly imbibe, get enough sleep, and ensure your body is receiving the abundance of vitamins and minerals required to keep you beautiful!

Log on to ULTA to purchase Vita-K Solution for Dark Circles Under Eyes ($10.49), Andrea Under Eye Circle Complex ($5.99), or Ultima II Glowtion Brighten Up, Tighten Up pink-tinted cream ($20, a personal favorite). These products are effective because they contain all-natural ingredients which soothe, smooth, make skin more taut, and diffuse light, thus perfecting its appearance. While using concealers, remember: Corrective bases now come in colors. Beige works best on dark circles, green concealer masks redness, and lavender or pink brightens dull skin. These are available in one compact from CCB Paris; get their catalog and purchase all shades in one compact for the amazing price of $6.75! Always apply any eye product by gently patting on, using your ring finger, as it exerts the least pressure. For expert application, use a brush.

One last thing: Several friends recommended I try Diane Young cosmetics and skin care (available on QVC), and I did. I was so impressed with this line that I temporarily “lost my mind” and spent $47.50 (ouch!) for their beige concealer wand. Yet I’ll do it again. It surpasses any concealer I’ve ever tried; possessing healing ingredients, it slips on like satin, completely covering circles and anything else you care to disguise.

Great news! The old adage, “You get what you pay for,” doesn’t necessarily apply to makeup. With costly brands, you often spend excess money for a product’s seductive packaging and signature name. There are numerous possibilities for economical makeup. Browse the Wet ‘n Wild counter in your local supermarket or discount/drugstore. Lipsticks sell for about a dollar, and I never leave home without at least one. Most of them (such as “Mega Colors”) contain a stain which lasts all day, so I no longer “fade away.” I choose neutral, matte, or classic shades and then finish with gloss, clear or tinted. Wet ‘n Wild’s lip colors are superior to many pricey, department-store brands. The line includes foundation, eyeshadows, blushes, pencils, nail color, and much more. The prices are so low that you almost feel as though you’re stealing them! I suggest you also visit Drugstore.com for more ideas. They offer many discounted brands and regularly include tempting “freebies.”

The Web site My Beauty Center first lured me with free makeup and shipping; bonuses are commonplace. I use their lash-enhancing mascara in “Eggplant,” a softer, flattering hue for almost everyone. It lengthens and thickens lashes without annoying clumps ($6.50). Right now, three of their best-selling blushes come together for $10.95 (“Mystic Mauve,” “Colonial Copper,” and “Maritime Merlot”-a “one-shade-compliments-most” tint).

“Fine makeup, sensibly priced,” was once Maybelline‘s motto, and that is precisely what they offer. Always visionary (following the most current color trends), the Expert Eyes Trio shadows ($4.50) and Quadro shadows ($5.29) include vivid, popular “glimmer,” and understated tones ($5.49). Colors blend beautifully and easily and have adequate staying power.

Cover Girl‘s “Waterproof” mascara ($3.99) withstands perspiration, swimming, and very long days. I haven’t found a better one; neither have some female members of the U.S. Olympic Swimming Team.

You can locate virtually any item you need (from skin care to glamour) at CCB Paris. The agnes b. prices are surprisingly economical, the selection filled with multi-purpose, unique items. All catalog items are now at a 50% discount, and you will receive any product from their brochure completely free of charge if you buy any other (simply contact them to be added to their mailing list). When shopping online, you may select a free moisturizer with any purchase and also receive a product sample for a friend. Presently, they have another enticement (both online and via the catalog): A functional, compartmentalized, folding cosmetic clutch with a purchase of $30 or more (so easy to spend here), and a 100% satisfaction guarantee. Some products I particularly enjoy (catalog prices): Lightly pearlized, scented blushes ($5.00), “Apricot Complexion Enhancer” (to even out skin tone–$8.00), a concealer kit with shades of green, lavender, and beige for $6.75 (quite similar to Lancome’s “Palette Pro” at a fraction of the cost), and “Special-Effect Eyeshadow,” pots which contain eye color to create a nuanced, holographic look ($4.25). Some of their products have been touted in Self and Marie Claire. And there’s more . . .

La Femme Cosmetics were once used exclusively by movie and television makeup professionals, as they are specifically formulated to stay true and on your face under hot lights and during lengthy days. Now available to consumers, the hues are distinctive and irresistible; for example, there’s “Champagne Gold,” “Iridescent Taupe,” and “Opalescent Blue”-for a paltry $3.00 each! Offering a plethora of colors, La Femme items can be purchased online at Makeup Mania. Textures vary from matte to lightly and heavily frosted, iridescent, and opalescent. Blush (just $3.00) is available in more than forty shades.

Some important advice: You may not be getting the appearance you desire because you aren’t using the right tools. With the money saved on inexpensive cosmetics, invest in excellent brushes and application tools. They are imperative for faultless results. The little plastic/foam applicators accompanying most products are useless. Brushes and accessories can be bought inexpensively (Maybelline’s highest-priced brush is $5.50; the rest are under $5.00, available at Drugstore.com). But it seems that true artists’ tools work best. Philosophy’s Pocketbook of three brushes retails for about $47 (available at Sephora.com) but makes any makeup look as though it’s been applied by a professional. For the finest selection of quality brushes, check out Profaces. They sell tools which allow you ultimate control to blend, contour, line, and define (there’s a wide price range here). Now you have only one problem: What to buy first?

Boy, have you come to the right place! I have a really hard time justifying spending that kind of money, too, because there are so many great choices in the $3-$10 range.

Drugstores are the perfect place to find just the mascara you are looking for. If you want something to build up your lashes and make them look thicker, try Rimmel Extra Super Lash (at Wal-Mart), L’Oreal Voluminous and Maybelline Volum’ Express are just as good or better than the expensive department store brands.

If you want your lashes to look longer, L’Oreal Longitude Lash Out, Almay Amazing Lash and Neutrogena
Full Length Defining are definitely ones to look for.

For natural looking lashes, L’Oreal FeatherLash, Maybelline Lash Discovery and Almay The Insider are all excellent choices.

Try just one of these and you’ll agree – $8 every 3 months is much more attractive than $25!

The lid area of the eye is very thin and delicate. Most of the products recommend that you dot the cream around the bone of
the eye (all the way around), and gently pat it into the skin.
Use your ring finger, as it is the weakest finger. If you place
it directly on the lid, or too close to the eye underneath, it
can cause burning. You also only need to use a VERY SMALL
amount.

It is also possible that you have sensitive skin, so you might
want to make sure you use products that are developed for
sensitive eyes. A few that you might like: Awake Hydro Plus,
Philosophy Eye Believe, Clarins Eye Contour Balm, Joey New York.

Heh heh! If only it were that easy. Wrinkles come with age because the production of collagen slows as we get older, as well as the fact that years of exposure to sun and free radicals causes damage over the long term.

Honestly, I won’t shine your apple here. Lines and creases are
a part of life as we get older. Think of each line as being
representative of a new kernel of wisdom you’ve gained, or a
good joke you’ve laughed at, or a new lesson you’ve learned.

Treat your skin well by staying hydrated, exercising, eating
well, and using products to exfoliate and moisturize; dozens of
brands are reviewed at our sister site CosmeticConnection.com,
so you can just sift through them until you find some that
appeal to you.

Hope this helps!

It sounds as if you have what is called hyperpigmentation. This can be caused by an irritation of the skin from acne, sun damage, or hormonal changes (such as pregnancy, birth control pills, and changes of your estrogen level during menopause). The darkening is caused by the skins’ increased production of
melanocytes, which contain melanin ( an natural coloring pigment
in the skin.

The way to fade them is to use a bleaching cream. You can go to
the dermatologist, who will give you a prescription for
hydroquione (Glyquin, Lustra, Melanex). These will contain 4%
hydroquione. Hydroquione is a bleach, and you must be careful
being in the sun when using it (use LOTS of suncsreen!). It will
also bleach any part of the skin it touches, so you must be
careful to treat only the spots. It is a slow process. It can
take several weeks to notice any improvement.

There are also products that are available from cosmetic
companies (non prescription) that I think work just as well.
These products use a lesser amount of hydroquione (usually 2%)
in combination with other ingredients, such as kojic acid,
lactic acid or citric acid. You might try:

Sage Bleaching Lotion with Kojic Acid (at ZeroZits.com)

Philosophy A Pigment of Your Imagination (at Philosophy.com)

pHaze 13 Pigment Gel (at SkinRx.com)

Peter Thomas Roth Lightening Gels – comes in varying
strengths (at Sephora.com, Dots2.com, Beauty.com)

First, if you are 35 or older, you should definitely add an eye creme to your routine. An eye cream will moisturize the skin surface and “plump” the skin. This will help the “baggy areas” you mentioned. You should use this at night following your
cleansing routine. The eye cream should be dotted on the bone
around the eye, and gently patted in. The eye will absorb what
it needs and the cream will help prevent dry, tired-looking
eyes. As we age the eye area becomes dull and makes us look
tired. It will also help prevent fine lines from forming.

You should also consider using a firming eye gel during the day.
The firming eye gel tightens and firms this delicate skin. It
should be used around the eye bone, as with the cream. This type
of care is cumulative in nature, so the longer you use it the
more you will notice a difference.

If you are experiencing puffiness under your eyes, then consider a
smoothing eye gel. This type of problem is generally worse in
the morning. Be sure to drink lots of water, and do not pull or
tug on the delicate eye tissue.

Some good Eye Creams:
- Awake Hydro Plus Eye (at Sephora.com)
- Philosophy Eye Believe (at Sephora.com)
- Clarins Eye Contour Balm (at Clarins-Paris.com)

Firming Eye Gels:
- Joey New York Firm and Tone (at Sephora.com)
- Clarins Extra Firming Eye Contour Cream (at Clarins-Paris.com)

For Puffiness:
- Joey New York Lift Up Eye Gel (at Sephora.com)
- Philosophy Dark Shadows (at Sephora.com)
- Origins No Puffery (at Origins.com)

Good luck and let me know if I can help any further! Many times
the creams will also double for firming and toning. Check
the products for what they propose to do for your eyes.

It’s difficult to say that one moisturizer is the “best”, although some are certainly better than others! A good moisturizer will hydrate without greasiness while leaving your
skin smooth, soft, and – optimally – protected from sun damage.
Also, many moisturizers now target older skin with an arsenal of
anti-aging ingredients – alpha and beta hydroxys, grapeseed,
retinol, etc. What’s best for one person’s skin may be a
disaster for another. You didn’t mention whether you have
sensitive skin, breakouts, lines or other problems, so it’s hard
make a recommendation. Total Effects is targeted toward
anti-aging, but it may be a bit rich for some combination skin.
If you feel greasy, you might want to try an oil-free daytime
moisturizer and use something richer at night.

First, I would ask if you smoke, because smoking will definitely cause the fine lines to appear around your mouth. You are too young to have age wrinkles. Could it be dryness? If that is the case then I would recommend using your eye cream that fights wrinkles around the mouth and see if that helps.

Normally the darkening around the mouth and sometimes other
areas of the face as you age is hyperpigmentation. The darker
your complexion, the more common this condition becomes. It can
be caused by hormonal imbalance, birth control pills, sun, etc.

There are several products to use to “bleach” the skin. A couple
that I would recommend:

Sage Bleaching Lotion with Kojic Acid (at ZeroZits.com)

Philosophy A Pigment of Your Imagination (at Philosophy.com)

Peter Thomas Roth Potent Botanical Skin Brightening Gel Complex (at Sephora.com, Dots2.com, Beauty.com)

When bleaching, follow these recommendations:
• Apply the bleach only to the darkened area. Continued use on
normal areas will lighten the normal skin tone also.

• Bleaching should be stopped when desired effects are received.
Continuing could cause the skin to become too light.

• Sun protection is an absolute MUST! The bleaching product will
make your face more sensitive to the sun, and it will try to
darken the areas you are working on to bleach.

• Be patient! Bleaching is a slow process. The darker the areas,
of course, the longer it will take.

Hydroquinone is probably the most used bleaching agent until
recently. It is available in non-prescription form (2%) and
prescription form (4% – Glyquin, Lustra, Melanex) from
dermatologists. There are people who cannot tolerate
hydroquinone, so for those people, kojic acid works very well.
There are also products that combine kojic acid with glycolic
acid. Check out the ingredients if you know you are sensitive to
any of these I have mentioned.

Hope this helps!

It sounds as if you’re already doing the right things to take good care of your skin, but I think you would benefit greatly from the use of a gentle Alpha/Beta Hydroxy treatment.

AHA’s and BHA’s do a wonderful job of removing the top layers of
the epidermis to reveal fresher, moister skin. Fine lines become
less noticeable, and you’ll probably notice a rosy glow. You
don’t need to spend lots of money either; I love Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream! You can’t beat it for the price, and it is very effective! You might also want to consider Prescriptives All You Need cream, which has everything you need for wonderful looking skin, all in one formula.

Something to remember: always use a sunscreen, especially when
using AHA’s or BHA’s. Because the skin being exposed is more
delicate, you’ll need to make sure it is well protected by using
a broad spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreen. But you should be doing
that already, and I’m sure you know that Sun exposure without
proper protection does great damage to skin, and causes all
sorts of problems like premature aging, wrinkling,
discoloration, or worst case scenario, skin cancer. I like
sunscreens by Peter Thomas Roth and Blisslabs, but Oil of Olay
makes a fabulous Olay Complete UV Protective Moisture Lotion SPF 15 full spectrum sunscreen, if you prefer to spend less (and who doesn’t?).

As far as drinking water goes, you should definitely be drinking
at least 8 full 8oz. glasses of water per day, and even more if
you are active or exercise regularly. I personally drink about 12
glasses a day, and cannot overstate its importance in
maintaining moist skin. Water hydrates your body, flushes out
toxins, and is essential to cell activity. Water consumption is
the cornerstone of a healthy body!

Hope this helps, and thanks so much for writing!