Ask The Makeup Diva

Stains are great for a natural, fresh-faced look while lasting through eating and drinking, and long days at work. These sheer colors are especially good for oily and combination skins, as they don’t contribute to breakouts. Moreover, lip tints won’t travel to your teeth, as traditional lipsticks often do.

The benefits are definitely worth the risks, but exercise caution here: Some of these products can be drying, as they may contain ingredients (such as intense dyes and alcohol) to cause your mouth to feel parched and its tissue to shrivel. Moreover, since some stains “set” quickly (accounting for the durability of color), follow the tips below to prevent a “clownlike” appearance. Accidental spills on clothing or carpeting can be difficult or impossible to remove.

Before applying a stain to your mouth, prep the area to slough off dead skin cells-especially if they’ve been neglected. Try Alchemy’s Lip Treatment Scrub ($15.00) to eliminate flakes and hydrate. English Ideas’ Lip Refine ($32.00) is a patented, comforting creme used at night to nourish and exfoliate (find both at Sephora.com). Another option is to gently massage your mouth with a soft-bristled toothbrush meant for infants or for a tasty, homemade treatment, a paste of brown sugar and water.

For best results with cheek tints, use an exfoliant on your face as well. After cleansing, follow with an excellent scrub. The four-ounce tub of Joey New York’s Pure Pores Crushed Almond and Honey Scrub is well worth its $28.00 price (online at Beauty.com or Sephora.com). Its gentle texture will reveal a clearer, more refined, softer complexion. A less expensive, effective, and delightfully-scented alternative is pH Beauty Lab’s Totally Juicy Apricot Pore Scrub (about $5.00 at most discount/drugstores). (”Quick fix” beauty tip: While using exfoliants on your face, work into dry hands, over arms, elbows, and shoulders to silken there as well.) Among its other benefits, moisturizer enables a cheek tint to slip on more easily, so make this your next step (then again, you’re already in the habit of using moisturizer regularly, right?). For a truly natural look, use stains before foundation, as a matte base can make spreading it difficult.

Now you’re ready! Application of stains with a lipbrush or sponge works more effectively than fingertips when possible, allowing for even coverage while preventing the product from remaining on your fingers. On cheeks, dab small amounts on the apples, moving upward and outward gently and swiftly. For greater color intensity, layer and repeat.

Enhance the benefits of a lip stain by beginning with a great, non-drying liner. CCB-Paris has a nearly goof-proof version, Expert Liquid Lip Lipliner (under $8.00 online at ccb-paris.com). This unique, no-drip, felt-tip pen allows precise application of long-lasting shades, while its water base helps keep your mouth moist. Benefit’s Lip and Cheek Tint is a dual-purpose favorite of many women, sold in one ruby shade to complement all skin tones; ingredients include real rose petals and glycerin to soothe ($26.00 at

Summer’s sizzling heat and increased humidity can intensify a lot of beauty problems: Oily skin may become even more of a challenge, as cosmetics slip off more easily. Humidity causes many cosmetics to congeal; thus, shadow creases and gathers in tiny lines (most annoying and unattractive for older women).

I’m surprised at how few shadow bases are offered in comparison to the overabundance of other cosmetics. Ultima II’s Fade Not, Crease Not (about $7.00 at many J.C. Penney and CVS stores or online at drugstore.com) will keep your color smooth and intact long after you’ve wilted. L’Oreal’s new De-Crease (a small tube with a wand-also approximately $7.00 or less, available locally) functions beautifully as well. I’ve actually used a tiny bit as a long-lasting concealer on blemishes, with great results. Caution: Avoid use under eyes, as the ingredients may prove too harsh for the sensitive tissue here. Both come in cr

Here are some tips regarding color to keep in mind: light and glimmery colors bring features forward, darker colors make features recede, or go back. So, to make your eyes bold, make sure your lighter color is on the lid and just under the eyebrow. The darker color goes in the crease of the eye, and perhaps a little on the outer corner of your upper lid.

For a little more drama, smudge a little of the darker color under the lower lashes, from outer corner to about midway under the eye. A little eyeliner can add drama, too; I like eyeliners that have a blending tip on one end. The look today is not one hard line, but a smudgy, smoldering effect. I rarely use black eye liner, as I feel it is a little harsh. Smoke, plum, brown are better choices in my opinion.

Of course, mascara completes the look. For evening, I like a fashion look of black mascara on my top lashes, and a plum or midnight blue mascara on my lower lashes. Sometimes I’ll tip the ends of my upper lashes with the colored mascara for a fun effect. It’s not obvious, but your lashes will catch the light and give those glimpses of color. For daytime, I use a brown/black mascara and sometimes I don’t do the lower lashes.

Just some ideas - have fun!

The honest answer to this question is both “yes” and “no”; the answer is different for every woman. It really depends on exactly what her skin concerns are. What may be necessary for treating and preventing minimal sun damage is vastly different from what a mature woman might need to help arrest the loss of elasticity and unevenness she sees.

There are three places to spend your time and money: a good cleanser, a moisturizer (there is almost always one that will address all your concerns), and finally, a good foundation.

The right cleanser should remove dirt, debris and make-up if you wear it. The only exception is “long wear” foundations. In most cases the pigment actually adheres to the skin surface, so a make-up remover may be necessary to completely break down the bond. Most cleansers come in a variety of forms, so it is really up to you, if you prefer a solid bar, or a foamy liquid. After washing, your face should feel comfortable, not tight or scratchy. Even the most moisturizing of cleanser should not leave a residue or film on your skin.

From basic hydration to smoothing fine lines and uneven tone and texture, a good moisturizer can and should address all of the concerns you have for the skin on your face. Periodically, there will be a buzz surrounding specific ingredients that are touted as “the best” for whatever may be the plague of the moment. Not so long ago it was alpha- and beta- hydroxy acids, then retinol became the catch of the day, and now we have vitamin C and lycopene. All of these ingredients have their advantages, so it really depends on what works best for your skin. Although several dermatologists I have talked with have indicated there is excellent evidence from ten-year studies on the use of retinols in significantly improving texture and tone, that is only if they are safe and comfortable for you to use. It may have been suggested that you need a moisturizer with sunscreen for day and another for night. There has been some evidence that moisturizers with sun protection can cause irritation or sensitivity in some people. If this is true for you, it is definitely advisable to stick with a good moisturizer without sunscreen and depend on your foundation to provide protection.

Now, that said, many women ask, “Do I really need a separate eye cream? Can’t I just use my moisturizer all over my face?” Unfortunately the answer is a resounding “no”. Moisturizers are not intended to be used in the immediate eye area; in many cases only eye creams are tested and approved by ophthalmologists. If that isn’t enough to convince you, try this: moisturizers are humectants - they draw in and hold moisture. Do you really want something like that under your eyes? If the eye area is a concern for you, this may be a step worth adding to your routine.

No. Run - don’t walk - away from tanning, even just to bring out charming freckles or a gentle flush of red. Many women were raised to cover themselves with baby oil and literally “fry.” Cosmetics and anti-aging products certainly aid your complexion’s health, but damage is still irreparable. Moreover, sunning becomes a “Catch-22″ of sorts: Once you’re bronzed, you are forced to stay that way to help conceal the harm done. Skin becomes leathery, wrinkled, and tough.

Consider this statistic: The American Academy of Dermatologists has said that 90% of aging is caused by exposure to sun, with only 10% due to chronology.

Tanned skin first became popular in the 1920’s, considered a sign of affluence and having enough leisure time to pursue recreation outdoors. Since that time, the occurrence of skin cancer has risen exponentially. It is especially dangerous for those with fair skin, freckles, and of certain ethnic backgrounds. Even if you were born with a hardy, olive skin tone, you are still at risk.

Sunburn is as serious as first-, second-, or third-degree burns due to accidents. Moreover, Ultraviolet A, B, and C rays penetrate through makeup and clothing. Typical summer fashions provide a sun protection factor (SPF) of only 5 to 9; once clothing becomes wet, this defense decreases.

Always wear a sunscreen when outside. Unfortunately, some women choose products with high SPF values (30+) and experience a mistaken sense of security, allowing themselves to remain outdoors for longer periods. Thus, they are as vulnerable as women who use a low-SPF product or no protection at all.

Time outside is dangerous if you are taking medications for high blood pressure, anxiety, or other conditions. Some ingredients in sunscreens and simple exposure to rays can serious trigger allergic reactions. Once you’ve developed a severe sensitivity to sun, you may be forced to stay indoors for the remainder of your life.

So skip the tan, even for a short while. Reach for a high-value SPF sunscreen and re-apply often. Apply it to areas covered by clothing, and find an attractive, wide-brimmed hat which shades your neck as well. A pair of chic sunglasses will prevent you from squinting (causing lines around your eyes as well as cataracts, the chief cause of blindness). A pale complexion is once again fashionable. If you still prefer a darker look, mimic it with a bronzing product (there are several excellent tints and powders available, some packed with ingredients to nourish as well) and a good self-tanner. I like Bare Escentuals mineral bronzing powder (available from QVC.com for $20.00), but you’ll find other effective ones in department, drug, and grocery stores. Some of the best-selling, easily applied self-tanners are produced by Coppertone (no more orange skin as in days past), Neutrogena, Clinique, and Estee Lauder.

The current selection of mascaras is mind-boggling, but several are formulated to address specific lash problems and/or “trends.” If you’re satisfied with the lashes given by Mother Nature, define them-I love Lancome Definicils ($20 at department stores or online at Lancome.com). Try it in Navy - it is specially formulated to enhance blue or green eyes. If you’d like to try a less-costly version, opt for Maybelline Lash Discovery (under $7 at local retailers or Drugstore.com). The petite brush is a surprisingly precise tool; the mascara slips on softly, smoothly. I like added length, but this product lives up to its claims.

First-rate basic mascaras include one found at My Beauty Center; I am especially fond of the Eggplant hue, as it accents without appearing harsh ($4.19). Benefit Mascara in Eggplant applies easily and adds volume and length. Find it at Sephora.com for $14.

If you’d prefer to curl and color at the same time, experiment with Avon CURL-ASCIOUS Maximum Curling Mascara (only $2.99 from your Avon representative or Avon.com right now; the regular price is $6.00). Although I don’t feel any mascara completely replaces an eyelash curler, it has an exclusive “Curl Retention” formula which resists moisture, subtly firming lashes for a long time. L’Oreal Le Grand Curl ($7.49 locally or at Drugstore.com) plumps, magnifies, and gently lifts. It has an even, clump-free texture.

Maximum-lash “oomph” can be achieved with Chanel Sculpting Mascara Extreme Length for Fine Lashes ($21.50) or Shu Uemura Basic Mascara ($27). “Basic” is an understatement here - it’s a one-mascara-does-it-all creation. For my needs, the cost warrants the price. Find both at Sephora.com. Application is flawless, results stunning and dramatic. If you have patience and determination, choose Paula Dorf cake mascara (also at Sephora.com for $20). Cake mascara is often the product of choice for professional makeup artists; you control silky, supple, glossy coverage by blending with water and layering several coats. Warning: Cake mascara can be a tad time-consuming but addictive.

Finally, as soon as the weather turns warmer, I refurbish my supply of Cover Girl Marathon Mascara (about $3.99 at drugstores or ULTA). It stands up to swimming, exercise, and perspiration longer than I do without touch-ups.

I would be remiss without one last comment: Never share mascara with another. Keep the applicator sanitary. Replace yours often, as eyes are quite vulnerable to the bacteria carried via makeup. Thus, if you decide to splurge on a pricey item, be prepared to throw it away before it’s completely used. Your eyes will thank you!

This spring, luminous shadow colors mimic those of the blossoms soon to appear on trees and bushes. Take advantage of these bright, fresh hues for a look that’s feminine, soft, and sexy. “Pretty” has returned in full splendor!

Add staying power to your shadow by beginning with a dependable base such as Stila Eye Concealer ($16 at Sephora.com) or Ultima II Fade Not, Crease Not ($13.50 at ULTA). Apply over entire lid to browbone and let “set” momentarily.

Blue, green, gold, pink, and lavender abound, but coverage is light, almost transparent. Tones of violet are wildly popular, as they flatter almost everyone. Try this: Sweep a sheer lilac hue from lashes to browbone. To add definition, apply a more vivid tone from the center of your lid to the end. Finally, contour with a smoky shade in the crease of your eyelid, brushing slightly upward and outward. Hard Candy Quartets in “Techno” and “Star” combine unique, eclectic tones to achieve stunning effects ($35.00 at Sephora.com). Another way to achieve this look is with Estee Lauder Floating Color for Eyes, a triple-color compact, in “Energy” (at department stores or Gloss.com for $28.50).

Exercise moderation here: Glimmer can enhance but also age you, accentuating lines and creases. Teenage cosmetics contain large glitter particles, so opt for an adult line to keep your glow low-voltage. One further precaution: Make sure you stay away from shadows with a yellow, red, or orange undertone, as they will cause you to look tired or even ill.

Muted liner is essential: With a soft pencil or your deepest shadow and an angled brush, edge the color along your upper and lower lash lines. An artist’s secret: Dab a bit of a glowing vanilla or light pink shadow in the middle of your lids, directly above your pupil, and on your browbone - eyes will appear “wide awake,” even if you’re not.

Next, crimp lashes with a curler and follow with an excellent mascara. Lancome Definicils in “Black” (at department stores or Cosmetic Mall for $20.00) applies flawlessly, eliminates clumps, and finds every lash. BeneFit Cosmetics mascara in “Eggplant” defines yet remains soft, lush ($14.00 at Sephora.com). Max Factor Lashfinity long-wearing color (about $6.50 at drugstores) is a multi-purpose product: It lengthens, separates, plumps, and stays in place from morning through evening.

Your brows frame your face: Use a pliable pencil in a natural shade to gently fill in sparse areas (I like Hard Candy Training Brow Kit, as it includes two mixable colors, tweezers, and brushes - $28.00 at Sephora.com). Another excellent alternative: Maybelline classic Expert Eyes Brow and Liner Pencils, available in a wide range of tones, for around $2.89 at drugstores and supermarkets. Brush brows slightly upward and outward to “open up” the eye area. Follow with Tweezerman Browmousse ($7.00) to hold stray hairs (find this locally or at Cosmetic Mall).

Finally, don’t forget that a great makeup application comes from great brushes. Bobbi Brown, Profaces, Estee Lauder, Philosophy, Revlon, and many other lines offer professional-quality brushes. Although these may be pricey, they’re definitely worth the investment.

I suggest that you do not color your hair unless it’s imperative to cover unwanted grey. The plethora of captivating hair color ads state that color makes hair “stronger and more vibrant” after use, but that is deceptive. The two most destructive ingredients in color are ammonia (think “Mr. Clean” here!) and peroxide (as in bleach). They can ravage even strong hair, so avoid, please.

The beauty of virgin hair is unparalleled - in the light, you can observe that your own natural color is multi-faceted, comprised of several different, subtle hues, blended together beautifully. Once hair is dyed, it takes a long time (via growing it out) to regain that inherent sheen, and you’ll most likely find your hair dry and frizzy.

Instead, increase gleam with henna, a natural plant extract to tint, highlight, and serve as a total sunblock. It comes in powder form (add water). Proper application requires time and patience (it can stain your hands and face as well), but women in mid-Eastern countries find it indispensable. Cosmetic Mall offers several varieties (including tints and clear), with prices ranging from $3.00 to $9.00. An easier choice might be to purchase a shampoo containing henna (Klorane’s infuses gleam for around $10).

If you’re still determined to try more traditional color, go no further than Clairol Loving Care, a tint free of peroxide and ammonia. It washes out in several shampoos.

Otherwise, ensure that your diet includes a powerful Vitamin B complex, necessary for strong nails and hair. Treat your locks with utmost care - whenever possible, work with your hands in lieu of combs and brushes. You should condition after each shampoo; occasionally, indulge in a deep conditioner like Phytotherathrie Multi-Regenerating Cr

The beauty industry has made huge strides in prevention and coverage of dark circles. But first, you need to address the cause of your circles. You may have very thin skin and inherited this trait. However, too much sodium, stress, fatigue, allergies, heavy eye creams, fluid retention, and alcohol all contribute to the problem. Old but pertinent advice: Eat well, drink as much water as you can possibly imbibe, get enough sleep, and ensure your body is receiving the abundance of vitamins and minerals required to keep you beautiful!

Log on to ULTA to purchase Vita-K Solution for Dark Circles Under Eyes ($10.49), Andrea Under Eye Circle Complex ($5.99), or Ultima II Glowtion Brighten Up, Tighten Up pink-tinted cream ($20, a personal favorite). These products are effective because they contain all-natural ingredients which soothe, smooth, make skin more taut, and diffuse light, thus perfecting its appearance. While using concealers, remember: Corrective bases now come in colors. Beige works best on dark circles, green concealer masks redness, and lavender or pink brightens dull skin. These are available in one compact from CCB Paris; get their catalog and purchase all shades in one compact for the amazing price of $6.75! Always apply any eye product by gently patting on, using your ring finger, as it exerts the least pressure. For expert application, use a brush.

One last thing: Several friends recommended I try Diane Young cosmetics and skin care (available on QVC), and I did. I was so impressed with this line that I temporarily “lost my mind” and spent $47.50 (ouch!) for their beige concealer wand. Yet I’ll do it again. It surpasses any concealer I’ve ever tried; possessing healing ingredients, it slips on like satin, completely covering circles and anything else you care to disguise.

Great news! The old adage, “You get what you pay for,” doesn’t necessarily apply to makeup. With costly brands, you often spend excess money for a product’s seductive packaging and signature name. There are numerous possibilities for economical makeup. Browse the Wet ‘n Wild counter in your local supermarket or discount/drugstore. Lipsticks sell for about a dollar, and I never leave home without at least one. Most of them (such as “Mega Colors”) contain a stain which lasts all day, so I no longer “fade away.” I choose neutral, matte, or classic shades and then finish with gloss, clear or tinted. Wet ‘n Wild’s lip colors are superior to many pricey, department-store brands. The line includes foundation, eyeshadows, blushes, pencils, nail color, and much more. The prices are so low that you almost feel as though you’re stealing them! I suggest you also visit Drugstore.com for more ideas. They offer many discounted brands and regularly include tempting “freebies.”

The Web site My Beauty Center first lured me with free makeup and shipping; bonuses are commonplace. I use their lash-enhancing mascara in “Eggplant,” a softer, flattering hue for almost everyone. It lengthens and thickens lashes without annoying clumps ($6.50). Right now, three of their best-selling blushes come together for $10.95 (”Mystic Mauve,” “Colonial Copper,” and “Maritime Merlot”-a “one-shade-compliments-most” tint).

“Fine makeup, sensibly priced,” was once Maybelline’s motto, and that is precisely what they offer. Always visionary (following the most current color trends), the Expert Eyes Trio shadows ($4.50) and Quadro shadows ($5.29) include vivid, popular “glimmer,” and understated tones ($5.49). Colors blend beautifully and easily and have adequate staying power.

Cover Girl’s “Waterproof” mascara ($3.99) withstands perspiration, swimming, and very long days. I haven’t found a better one; neither have some female members of the U.S. Olympic Swimming Team.

You can locate virtually any item you need (from skin care to glamour) at CCB Paris. The agnes b. prices are surprisingly economical, the selection filled with multi-purpose, unique items. All catalog items are now at a 50% discount, and you will receive any product from their brochure completely free of charge if you buy any other (simply contact them to be added to their mailing list). When shopping online, you may select a free moisturizer with any purchase and also receive a product sample for a friend. Presently, they have another enticement (both online and via the catalog): A functional, compartmentalized, folding cosmetic clutch with a purchase of $30 or more (so easy to spend here), and a 100% satisfaction guarantee. Some products I particularly enjoy (catalog prices): Lightly pearlized, scented blushes ($5.00), “Apricot Complexion Enhancer” (to even out skin tone–$8.00), a concealer kit with shades of green, lavender, and beige for $6.75 (quite similar to Lancome’s “Palette Pro” at a fraction of the cost), and “Special-Effect Eyeshadow,” pots which contain eye color to create a nuanced, holographic look ($4.25). Some of their products have been touted in Self and Marie Claire. And there’s more . . .

La Femme Cosmetics were once used exclusively by movie and television makeup professionals, as they are specifically formulated to stay true and on your face under hot lights and during lengthy days. Now available to consumers, the hues are distinctive and irresistible; for example, there’s “Champagne Gold,” “Iridescent Taupe,” and “Opalescent Blue”-for a paltry $3.00 each! Offering a plethora of colors, La Femme items can be purchased online at Makeup Mania. Textures vary from matte to lightly and heavily frosted, iridescent, and opalescent. Blush (just $3.00) is available in more than forty shades.

Some important advice: You may not be getting the appearance you desire because you aren’t using the right tools. With the money saved on inexpensive cosmetics, invest in excellent brushes and application tools. They are imperative for faultless results. The little plastic/foam applicators accompanying most products are useless. Brushes and accessories can be bought inexpensively (Maybelline’s highest-priced brush is $5.50; the rest are under $5.00, available at Drugstore.com). But it seems that true artists’ tools work best. Philosophy’s Pocketbook of three brushes retails for about $47 (available at Sephora.com) but makes any makeup look as though it’s been applied by a professional. For the finest selection of quality brushes, check out Profaces. They sell tools which allow you ultimate control to blend, contour, line, and define (there’s a wide price range here). Now you have only one problem: What to buy first?