Ask The Makeup Diva

Here are some tips regarding color to keep in mind: light and glimmery colors bring features forward, darker colors make features recede, or go back. So, to make your eyes bold, make sure your lighter color is on the lid and just under the eyebrow. The darker color goes in the crease of the eye, and perhaps a little on the outer corner of your upper lid.

For a little more drama, smudge a little of the darker color under the lower lashes, from outer corner to about midway under the eye. A little eyeliner can add drama, too; I like eyeliners that have a blending tip on one end. The look today is not one hard line, but a smudgy, smoldering effect. I rarely use black eye liner, as I feel it is a little harsh. Smoke, plum, brown are better choices in my opinion.

Of course, mascara completes the look. For evening, I like a fashion look of black mascara on my top lashes, and a plum or midnight blue mascara on my lower lashes. Sometimes I’ll tip the ends of my upper lashes with the colored mascara for a fun effect. It’s not obvious, but your lashes will catch the light and give those glimpses of color. For daytime, I use a brown/black mascara and sometimes I don’t do the lower lashes.

Just some ideas - have fun!

The honest answer to this question is both “yes” and “no”; the answer is different for every woman. It really depends on exactly what her skin concerns are. What may be necessary for treating and preventing minimal sun damage is vastly different from what a mature woman might need to help arrest the loss of elasticity and unevenness she sees.

There are three places to spend your time and money: a good cleanser, a moisturizer (there is almost always one that will address all your concerns), and finally, a good foundation.

The right cleanser should remove dirt, debris and make-up if you wear it. The only exception is “long wear” foundations. In most cases the pigment actually adheres to the skin surface, so a make-up remover may be necessary to completely break down the bond. Most cleansers come in a variety of forms, so it is really up to you, if you prefer a solid bar, or a foamy liquid. After washing, your face should feel comfortable, not tight or scratchy. Even the most moisturizing of cleanser should not leave a residue or film on your skin.

From basic hydration to smoothing fine lines and uneven tone and texture, a good moisturizer can and should address all of the concerns you have for the skin on your face. Periodically, there will be a buzz surrounding specific ingredients that are touted as “the best” for whatever may be the plague of the moment. Not so long ago it was alpha- and beta- hydroxy acids, then retinol became the catch of the day, and now we have vitamin C and lycopene. All of these ingredients have their advantages, so it really depends on what works best for your skin. Although several dermatologists I have talked with have indicated there is excellent evidence from ten-year studies on the use of retinols in significantly improving texture and tone, that is only if they are safe and comfortable for you to use. It may have been suggested that you need a moisturizer with sunscreen for day and another for night. There has been some evidence that moisturizers with sun protection can cause irritation or sensitivity in some people. If this is true for you, it is definitely advisable to stick with a good moisturizer without sunscreen and depend on your foundation to provide protection.

Now, that said, many women ask, “Do I really need a separate eye cream? Can’t I just use my moisturizer all over my face?” Unfortunately the answer is a resounding “no”. Moisturizers are not intended to be used in the immediate eye area; in many cases only eye creams are tested and approved by ophthalmologists. If that isn’t enough to convince you, try this: moisturizers are humectants - they draw in and hold moisture. Do you really want something like that under your eyes? If the eye area is a concern for you, this may be a step worth adding to your routine.

No. Run - don’t walk - away from tanning, even just to bring out charming freckles or a gentle flush of red. Many women were raised to cover themselves with baby oil and literally “fry.” Cosmetics and anti-aging products certainly aid your complexion’s health, but damage is still irreparable. Moreover, sunning becomes a “Catch-22″ of sorts: Once you’re bronzed, you are forced to stay that way to help conceal the harm done. Skin becomes leathery, wrinkled, and tough.

Consider this statistic: The American Academy of Dermatologists has said that 90% of aging is caused by exposure to sun, with only 10% due to chronology.

Tanned skin first became popular in the 1920’s, considered a sign of affluence and having enough leisure time to pursue recreation outdoors. Since that time, the occurrence of skin cancer has risen exponentially. It is especially dangerous for those with fair skin, freckles, and of certain ethnic backgrounds. Even if you were born with a hardy, olive skin tone, you are still at risk.

Sunburn is as serious as first-, second-, or third-degree burns due to accidents. Moreover, Ultraviolet A, B, and C rays penetrate through makeup and clothing. Typical summer fashions provide a sun protection factor (SPF) of only 5 to 9; once clothing becomes wet, this defense decreases.

Always wear a sunscreen when outside. Unfortunately, some women choose products with high SPF values (30+) and experience a mistaken sense of security, allowing themselves to remain outdoors for longer periods. Thus, they are as vulnerable as women who use a low-SPF product or no protection at all.

Time outside is dangerous if you are taking medications for high blood pressure, anxiety, or other conditions. Some ingredients in sunscreens and simple exposure to rays can serious trigger allergic reactions. Once you’ve developed a severe sensitivity to sun, you may be forced to stay indoors for the remainder of your life.

So skip the tan, even for a short while. Reach for a high-value SPF sunscreen and re-apply often. Apply it to areas covered by clothing, and find an attractive, wide-brimmed hat which shades your neck as well. A pair of chic sunglasses will prevent you from squinting (causing lines around your eyes as well as cataracts, the chief cause of blindness). A pale complexion is once again fashionable. If you still prefer a darker look, mimic it with a bronzing product (there are several excellent tints and powders available, some packed with ingredients to nourish as well) and a good self-tanner. I like Bare Escentuals mineral bronzing powder (available from QVC.com for $20.00), but you’ll find other effective ones in department, drug, and grocery stores. Some of the best-selling, easily applied self-tanners are produced by Coppertone (no more orange skin as in days past), Neutrogena, Clinique, and Estee Lauder.

The current selection of mascaras is mind-boggling, but several are formulated to address specific lash problems and/or “trends.” If you’re satisfied with the lashes given by Mother Nature, define them-I love Lancome Definicils ($20 at department stores or online at Lancome.com). Try it in Navy - it is specially formulated to enhance blue or green eyes. If you’d like to try a less-costly version, opt for Maybelline Lash Discovery (under $7 at local retailers or Drugstore.com). The petite brush is a surprisingly precise tool; the mascara slips on softly, smoothly. I like added length, but this product lives up to its claims.

First-rate basic mascaras include one found at My Beauty Center; I am especially fond of the Eggplant hue, as it accents without appearing harsh ($4.19). Benefit Mascara in Eggplant applies easily and adds volume and length. Find it at Sephora.com for $14.

If you’d prefer to curl and color at the same time, experiment with Avon CURL-ASCIOUS Maximum Curling Mascara (only $2.99 from your Avon representative or Avon.com right now; the regular price is $6.00). Although I don’t feel any mascara completely replaces an eyelash curler, it has an exclusive “Curl Retention” formula which resists moisture, subtly firming lashes for a long time. L’Oreal Le Grand Curl ($7.49 locally or at Drugstore.com) plumps, magnifies, and gently lifts. It has an even, clump-free texture.

Maximum-lash “oomph” can be achieved with Chanel Sculpting Mascara Extreme Length for Fine Lashes ($21.50) or Shu Uemura Basic Mascara ($27). “Basic” is an understatement here - it’s a one-mascara-does-it-all creation. For my needs, the cost warrants the price. Find both at Sephora.com. Application is flawless, results stunning and dramatic. If you have patience and determination, choose Paula Dorf cake mascara (also at Sephora.com for $20). Cake mascara is often the product of choice for professional makeup artists; you control silky, supple, glossy coverage by blending with water and layering several coats. Warning: Cake mascara can be a tad time-consuming but addictive.

Finally, as soon as the weather turns warmer, I refurbish my supply of Cover Girl Marathon Mascara (about $3.99 at drugstores or ULTA). It stands up to swimming, exercise, and perspiration longer than I do without touch-ups.

I would be remiss without one last comment: Never share mascara with another. Keep the applicator sanitary. Replace yours often, as eyes are quite vulnerable to the bacteria carried via makeup. Thus, if you decide to splurge on a pricey item, be prepared to throw it away before it’s completely used. Your eyes will thank you!

This spring, luminous shadow colors mimic those of the blossoms soon to appear on trees and bushes. Take advantage of these bright, fresh hues for a look that’s feminine, soft, and sexy. “Pretty” has returned in full splendor!

Add staying power to your shadow by beginning with a dependable base such as Stila Eye Concealer ($16 at Sephora.com) or Ultima II Fade Not, Crease Not ($13.50 at ULTA). Apply over entire lid to browbone and let “set” momentarily.

Blue, green, gold, pink, and lavender abound, but coverage is light, almost transparent. Tones of violet are wildly popular, as they flatter almost everyone. Try this: Sweep a sheer lilac hue from lashes to browbone. To add definition, apply a more vivid tone from the center of your lid to the end. Finally, contour with a smoky shade in the crease of your eyelid, brushing slightly upward and outward. Hard Candy Quartets in “Techno” and “Star” combine unique, eclectic tones to achieve stunning effects ($35.00 at Sephora.com). Another way to achieve this look is with Estee Lauder Floating Color for Eyes, a triple-color compact, in “Energy” (at department stores or Gloss.com for $28.50).

Exercise moderation here: Glimmer can enhance but also age you, accentuating lines and creases. Teenage cosmetics contain large glitter particles, so opt for an adult line to keep your glow low-voltage. One further precaution: Make sure you stay away from shadows with a yellow, red, or orange undertone, as they will cause you to look tired or even ill.

Muted liner is essential: With a soft pencil or your deepest shadow and an angled brush, edge the color along your upper and lower lash lines. An artist’s secret: Dab a bit of a glowing vanilla or light pink shadow in the middle of your lids, directly above your pupil, and on your browbone - eyes will appear “wide awake,” even if you’re not.

Next, crimp lashes with a curler and follow with an excellent mascara. Lancome Definicils in “Black” (at department stores or Cosmetic Mall for $20.00) applies flawlessly, eliminates clumps, and finds every lash. BeneFit Cosmetics mascara in “Eggplant” defines yet remains soft, lush ($14.00 at Sephora.com). Max Factor Lashfinity long-wearing color (about $6.50 at drugstores) is a multi-purpose product: It lengthens, separates, plumps, and stays in place from morning through evening.

Your brows frame your face: Use a pliable pencil in a natural shade to gently fill in sparse areas (I like Hard Candy Training Brow Kit, as it includes two mixable colors, tweezers, and brushes - $28.00 at Sephora.com). Another excellent alternative: Maybelline classic Expert Eyes Brow and Liner Pencils, available in a wide range of tones, for around $2.89 at drugstores and supermarkets. Brush brows slightly upward and outward to “open up” the eye area. Follow with Tweezerman Browmousse ($7.00) to hold stray hairs (find this locally or at Cosmetic Mall).

Finally, don’t forget that a great makeup application comes from great brushes. Bobbi Brown, Profaces, Estee Lauder, Philosophy, Revlon, and many other lines offer professional-quality brushes. Although these may be pricey, they’re definitely worth the investment.

Reportedly, Kim Basinger was self-conscious of her full lips while she was an adolescent, but her father assured her that she would “make a million dollars” from them. How lucky you are! The rest of us use “lip plumpers” to create such sensuality.

The popular makeup “look” now is a muted mouth, with emphasis on eyes and use of glimmer. Some makeup artists suggest that lining your lips and then filling them in with a lip pencil in a subtle shade is a good way to achieve this effect. Follow with gloss.

You can also try BeneFit BeneTint Lip Balm, berry-stained protection with Vitamin E and an SPF factor of 15. Their Dancing Darling Lip Sparkles add understated color, especially in the neutral Count the Beat shade ($16 at BeneFit Cosmetics and Sephora.com).

I’ve found Lorac Lip and Cheek Tint ($13.50) a “must-have.” With a lipbrush, I apply it in Red-Brown; you can control the amount of coverage desired. The stain remains in place, yet it never overwhelms. An added bonus-apply it to the apples of your cheeks to look as though you’ve just come in from the cold.

Lorac also offers a wonderful, unusual, roll-on Sheer Wash ($24). Formulated for use on lips and cheeks, try Sheer Rapture (a neutral hue with some taupe) or Sheer Emotion (a tad more pink). The name says it all: A color “wash” stays clear, stays light, but keeps you glowing. You may find the price a bit steep, but I love dual-purpose products. Find Lorac online at Sephora.com.

Another option: Visit Gloss.com and experiment with Origins Bite Your Lips colors. As the name suggests, they are made to look as though the color is your own-sheer and natural (remember how Scarlett O’Hara added color to her face?). At $12.50, I’ve been pleased with Strawberry, Raspberry, and Brownberry. They provide continuous color and never overpower my fair skin.

The finishing gloss which should be on everyone’s lips? Kiehl’s Lip Balm. It has a worldwide following (even in Singapore!) and is favored by celebrities. At only $5 for a long-lasting tube, it is unbeatable. This potent salve contains wheat germ oil, vitamins A and E, aloe vera, and the least possible preservatives. It protects and enhances lips in the most severe conditions. Find it at Kiehls.com.